With limited snow cover about, the four of
us (Garry, Carlos, Izy and I) chose the “northern option” of
aiming for Ciste Mhearad or Mhairearaid (“Margaret’s coffin or
kist”) on Cairngorm, despite a MWIS forecast “Saturday upland
gales and rain (intermittently snow higher areas)” We emerged
from our cars at the lower ski parking area at 13:00 after a
quick trip over the Lecht into drizzle, wind, and cloud above,
and walked up the Creagan Dubh ridge in these unpleasant
conditions, things not improving as we approached the top of the
non-moving ski lifts in cloud.
A few bedraggled figures about, some trying
mistakenly to ski in patches of slush. With morale falling, and
thoughts of Ryvoan, the Shelter Stone or even our cars, we
headed for the Ptarmigan Restaurant for a very welcome coffee
before being chucked out as the last train left at 16:00, and
decided that, being so near, we might as well at least have a
look at the Ciste. So we headed over snow fields in the rain, to
descend slightly to the expected snow bank at 011046, where we
found not one but about a dozen snow holes all ready and waiting
for occupancy.
We chose the largest and very fine one,
which had two entrances, three platforms, half-a-dozen ledges
and ample standing height, and spent an hour on finishing
touches such as blocking up one entrance against the wind.
After dark and a meal, we undertook an
expedition up to the Cairngorm summit, with snow (rather than
rain) falling, and thanks to Garry’s compass work bumped into
the weather station bang on target. Down again – a surprisingly
long way - by following our tracks, and settled down for the
night with plenty of space.
My rest (at least) was disturbed by drips
from the roof, which I had failed to smooth off (maybe that
wouldn’t have worked anyway), and then by increasing cold later
on, but I managed the odd doze. A necessary mid-night excursion
was made into driving snow – very glad to be inside a snowhole!
In the morning, got up late (at Garry’s insistence), and had to
dig our way out, the six-foot entrance having been blocked up by
drifting overnight. Away from the snowbank and its falling
drift, things looked better, with a view out southeast, and
patches of blue sky; not much new snow on the stones over the
way. Snowhole Village was completely invisible, except for our
own abode: a good thing it hadn't looked like this the evening
before!
Packed up (not a quick process), and
eventually got away at about 10:00, descending SE on a vague
path across awkward snowfields, ice (on top of half-frozen
burns), rocks and heather to the Saddle at the head of
Strathnethy.
Good views up Loch Avon to the Shelter
Stone crag.
Then NE over snowfields with the wind
behind us up A’Choinneach and finally past rocks to Bynack Mor
in wind but clear weather. Excellent walking, and views back to
Cairngorm showed our snowhole site (small black dor below the
snow shadow):
At the summit, good views and mutual
congratulations all round, though the highest summits (Macdhui,
Ben Avon, etc.) remained in cloud.
At this point, we made the mistake of
following Garry’s advice to return to the car via the highest
notch in the lower part of the easternmost ridge of Cairngorm,
rather than taking the low route down towards Ryvoan and round
by the Glenmore Lodge track. First over Bynack Beag, then down a
crumbly gravel path and ever-deepening heather to the Nethy
burn, the Allt Garbh.
This, with a good deal of meltwater coming
down, proved crossable only by a quick wade – not that a little
dampness worried us much by this stage. The western side up to
the notch proved a real nightmare, an ever-steepening and
ever-lasting slope with heather between ankle and knee height,
steep snow patches, and no path (despite Garry’s promises)
except occasional semi-vertical peat slides with heather roots
sending boots downwards.
It took at least an hour to do this with
heavy packs, zigzagging madly where possible. At last we emerged
through the rocky notch onto the ridge to see the car park in
the distance – a very welcome sight.
A wet and peaty/boggy path down to near
Loch na Beinne, and then a final pull up a moraine or two to the
car park, which I reached in the dry (so to speak); the others
had to endure a vicious snow shower which came sweeping off
Cairngorm as a farewell. Back home over the Lecht in dreadful
weather: we’d certainly made the most of the weekend!
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