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"Not very much in November"
23-24 November 2007
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On a dark and somewhat dismal November
evening, various figures staggered along duckboards and sploshed
through the mud from the “No Overnight Parking” sign on the
Achnasheen-to-Achnashellach road towards a couple of small
windows glowing in the gloom. Progress over the darkened waters
was a matter of faith and balance, while amongst the featureless
rushes the occasional reflector post was a god-send.
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Inside, however, all – well, some: see below – was light (gas)
and warmth (a very welcome bowl of soup, and a glowing fire), as
a dozen or so folk foregathered for the week-end meet organised
by Marj Ewan in the
Jacobites Club’s cottage at Inver. The place has been
wonderfully rescued from a near-ruin, with a spacious kitchen, a
toilet and a comfortable lounge, even a drying room. Solar
panels even provide electricity, though not much, it seemed, in
November. The merest trickle of water available through the
kitchen taps was the only immediately obvious drawback. Marj and
Jasmine Ross had done Moruisg on the Friday in a biting cold
wind with everything frozen underfoot. Alex Barbour had had an
“interesting” Friday on Cairngorm, in deep powder snow in the
northern corries but a fine hard surface on the plateau. For Ian
and Jim Bryce, a 7am departure from Aberdeen on Friday certainly
paid dividends, as they had a good time on Little Wyvis in
bright sunshine with extensive views of Beinn Dearg, the
Fannichs, Ben Wyvis and An Teallach, in full winter raiment.
Then they were in time to reach the hut in daylight, and
transported in coal and wood, light the fire and get the hut
warm.
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Overnight, a further Inver
drawback appeared in the form of a perishingly cold night for
most of us, stretched out on the upper floor, and shivering
(when not snoring) in unison. This made a 7.00am rise not quite
so unwelcome as usual, though some wore full winter kit while
huddled over their cornflakes. Then it was out into a rough old
day – chilly, windy, showery, and a sprinkling of snow on the
occasionally visible hillsides. Like the starting times,
destinations and objectives were varied, as will now be related.
Ken and Lydia Thomson and Joyce Ritchie started off up a good
path beside the Allt Frianach behind the SMC’s Ling Hut, and
crossed several challenging side torrents before heading up
rough ground to Lochan Uaine, intent on the Sgorr of that ilk (a
Corbett), and then perhaps the twin Corbett, Sgorr Dubh, to the
north. However, a sudden lightning flash and thunderclap en
route made for caution, and the wind grew to a strength
unnerving to the smaller members of the party. So, above the
loch(s), amid impressive scenery, it was decided to abort, and a
rather unpleasant descent was made due north, straight into the
wind and hail until the path was regained. The side torrents on
the way back were even higher but, with most of the party pretty
wet already, seemed perhaps not quite so challenging.
Nevertheless, a stop at Ye Olde Achnasheen Tea Shoppe seemed
justified, if only in order to allow texting to ensure that
others had stoked up the fire at Inver.
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Alex Macmillan, Eilidh
Scobbie, Marj Ewan, Jasmine Ross and Emily Gamble headed for
Scardroy over the railway line next to Inver, and then up the
rather unsatisfactory path over the col towards Scardroy Lodge,
underneath impressive cliffs to the south. Reaching the forest,
with loads of deer hiding from the weather, seemed far enough,
however (or did Emily at least reach Loch Beannacharain?), and
they then returned to Inver along the same route, no doubt to
stoke up the aforesaid fire in good time for everybody else.
Bill Morgan forged his way
from Achnashellach up Glen Lair with its splendid cliffs, and
got right up the col, where he met the north-western gale with a
vengeance, being hit by ice lifted from the lochan at the top!
Further progress, e.g. a return via Sgrr Ruadh and Fuar Tholl,
seemed definitely inadvisable, especially as crossing back over
the River Lair would be impossible, and so he returned down the
path, to discover that he had missed death by hours as a tree
had meanwhile fallen across the track!
Tim Walmsley, with both car
and bike, headed with the former for Grudie and then with the
latter (and somewhat more effort, into the wind) for Fannich
Lodge, from where he ascended Meall Gorm – the only summiteering
success of the day. He reported a fine stalker’s path most of
the way up, and weather conditions rather better higher up – a
claim met with some scepticism by the rest of the group,
especially as near the summit he had lost his best pair of ski
goggles to a huge gust of wind. He also found it necessary to
rehydrate at Achnasheen on the way back.
Ian and Jim got to within a
hundred metres from the top of the Corbett Sgurr na Feartaig,
above Gerry's hostel at Achnashellach before deciding to turn
back after Jim got blown over. They heard later that four people
had been rescued on Ben Nevis: a reminder that it is sometimes
sensible to let the hill win.
Alec set out for Fionn
Bheinn, but must have had second thoughts, for when the Scardroy
party returned, they found in the hut a note (“Have Done an Andy
Lawson”). Alec was last heard of in the Cairngorm Hotel in
Aviemore, perhaps hoping for better conditions back there on
Sunday.
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A group depleted by one therefore found themselves sitting round
the table in the late Saturday afternoon wondering how to while
away the weary hours until bedtime. Two solutions presented
themselves, or rather were presented through the pre-trip
planning and the hard work of a few. First, Joyce Ritchie’s 50th
birthday was celebrated with flutes of fizz and a superb cake
appropriately decorated. Speeches were not offered (or at least
were not listened to), while an inscribed birthday card
summarised the accumulated wisdom of the rest of the party
(especially those over 60).
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Second, and even more memorably, Bill
Morgan came up with a splendid meal, whose very menu sets the
juices flowing:
o Cullen skink o
o Lamb tajine with cous-cous and vegetables o
o Apple pie and cream o
o Cheese and biscuits o
o Coffee o
o with alcoholic refreshment to taste o
Just getting all
the ingredients over the morass to Inver must have taken Bill a
good deal of effort, let alone preparing and cooking them. The
group’s obvious satisfaction with the repast may have been some
reward.
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Burning off the
ingested carbohydrates, and more adequate sleepwear, meant that
the Saturday night was spent in greater comfort, but the Sunday
weather (and forecast, as relayed by mobile from Aberdeen) was
little encouragement although the wind had declined.
Consequently, most folk headed for home although the Bryces
braved Achnasheen’s relentless drizzle to ascend Fionn Bheinn.
Tim Walmsley exercised his bike at the Learnie trails on the
Black Isle, and the President was taken for coffee at Tiso’s in
Inverness.
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Author: Ken Thomson |
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