Directions: From Pass of Ballater, head back
towards Aberdeen. After a couple of miles you'll find The
Willows hotel/cafe on the left, just before a sign for a forest
walk. After pigging out on the fantastic cakes in The Willows,
go up the track to the start of the forest walks. Go through the
gate straight ahead and go straight on until another gate is
reached. Through this gate and follow the path trending L where
the path splits. Keep plodding on till you reach the leftmost
quarry 'Idiot's Quarry' at the end of the track.
Routes are described clockwise from the L,
1 SCUFFER F4+
The easiest route here up the tilted slab.
2 BOULDER PROBLEM F7b C. Stewart
The painful wee route to the LO on the
balanced boulder. No pain, no gain the LO. Try it and you'll
see! The boulder has recently fallen off!
3 NO REST FOR THE WICKED E6 6b ** A.
If you are going to chip holds, you might as
well chip pro. as well. Needs bolts.
4 EDGELANDS F7b* FA N. Morrison
Up to third bolt on Idiot Savant, L and up
via a long reach.
5 IDIOT SAVANT F7B+*** FA A. Ross
The obvious L to R diagonal crack. Follow it
to near its end then up to LO. A good natural line. Mmm...
6 STICKS AND STONES F7a+ FA N.Morrison
Wall right of Idiot Savant.
7 SLIP OF DEATH F5 FA ???
Climbs the slab between the two cracks
8 DEATH WISH 2 F5+ FA ???
To the right of the slab is a dodgy looking
hanging block. From the block, climb over a roof then up another
9 SUICIDE BAT F6a FA ???
Start as for the last route, gain the
overhanging arete then finish delicately up right.
10 PINBALL WIZARD F6b+ FA ???
From the stepped block right again, climb up
and left to below the overhanging wall. Climb the wall left to
join Suicide Bat.
11 MAGIC BUS F5+ FA ???
Up Pinball Wizard to 1st bolt, left to below
overhanging arete, up the corner to the roof. Head left then
12 ANYWAY, ANYHOW, ANYWHERE F5+,FA ???
From the stepped block, move up and right to
the 1st bolt. From here go right then finish direct.
13 HEINOUS DE MILO F7b ** FA N.Shepherd
Good manufactured route up the left side of
the big wall.
14 SUN CITY F7a+ *** FA N.Morrison
The big wall direct.
15 TORNADO OF SOULS F7b+* FA N.Shepherd
Up wall to hanging corner groove.
16 WELCOME TO THE WORKING WEAK F7a FA
Micro-crack and flakes to R. OK, go on, use
the boulder, see if I care - see if it makes the slightest
17 INDIAN SUMMER F6c+ FA J. Wilson
A bolt stud marks this. Left side of Sharp
18 SHARP PRACTICE F6a* FA ???
The flake has a hollow ring to it but the
crux seems solid enough, especially if you are short. Soft touch
for the tall.
19 TECHNICAL MERIT F6c+ FA J. Wilson
Long reach on the lower wall, then follow the
20 BONSAI F6a FA G. Ridge
The petite route directly under the tree on
21 WIMPY CONSTRUCTION F6a+ FA ???
The central line is one.
22 WIND IN THE WILLOWS F6b FA J.
The line to the R.
On the ledge above Bonsai Pipeline, from L to
23 VIRAL INFECTION F5+ FA N.Morrison
The left most line.
24 STUMP F5+ FA N. Morrison
Straight up above the tree.
25 QUALITY STREET F6a+ FA N. Morrison
Line to right of 'step' in ledge. Up then L
followed by crux to LO. Last moves are thin and the bolt seems
miles away. Proceed with caution...
26 ROSES F5 FA N. Morrison
Right most route. A pleasant introduction to
a style of climbing that grows on you.
The next climbs are in the furthest R quarry.
Go down the track about 30m from Idiots to a track leading off
left at a level below the quarry detritus. Follow the track for
a few hundred metres till you find a cleaned arete.
FAR RIGHT QUARRY
There is a bird ban during the nesting season
- CLIMBING ONLY ALLOWED HERE JULY - DECEMBER. Please don't climb
outside this or the whole of Cambus O' May may be banned.
The left wall.
1 BOY N' THE HOOD F6A+ FA N. Shepherd
The short L arete of the quarry. The midges
were a bit too friendly that day!
2 THE HERD INSTINCT F7A+ FA N.
The slight groove to the R. A fine technical
problem that should get loads of attention.
3 THE CRIMP TEST F7A+ FA N. Shepherd?
Right of The Herd Instinct is another
constructed line. Short and sharp.
The back wall.
4 NELLIE AND DODE'S DAY OUT F6a FA G.
Flakes L of the obvious borehole in the black
granite slab. Unfortunately short and unfortunately not as easy
as it looks.
5 THE RUNNEL F5+ FA G. Ridge
Can you find this one by yourself?
6 MAY FLY F6C FA ???
Corner with bird droppings. Scary in a bolt
route sort of way
7 SPIKE ISLAND F7A+ FA G. Ridge
Hairline crack up wall to finish R of hanging
flake/boulder. A jumped up boulder problem.
8 WHIPPERSNAPPER F7A FA N.Shepherd
Crack R again. Crux at the top.
9 ON THE LOOSE AGAIN F6B FA ???
Rightmost line. Rock not 100%.